Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line until the rod touches the ceiling. We recommend using wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also help prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.Īlign your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark alongside the rod’s top tile mark. Once you’ve established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, using a spirit level to make ensure it’s straight, draw a line from side to side: This should mean your end tiles you need to cut will be more than half a tile wide, and that your centre line and centre tile now match up: If you do need to move your starting point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one halfway between two tile marks. If less than half a tile will be needed we suggest adjusting your starting position, as larger tiles look much better when finished: Once you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it: This way, it’s easy to see how many you need in each row. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. Lay out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8m depending on the size of your wall. You can find this simply by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.Ī gauge rod is a smart way to help you with your row and end tile size. Create Your DesignĪs we mentioned earlier, establish your vertical rows from the middle of your space. While it’s tempting to begin in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and a messy finish by the time you’re done. It also means any half-tiles you may need can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. It’s always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. Most ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, but we’d recommend having around 5-10% extra just in case. Once you’re sure of the maths, you can go ahead and buy your tiles. To save confusion, it sometimes helps to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions written down. Measure the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.īe sure to factor in the area of any doors, windows or cupboards and subtract this from the total. The first step is working out how many wall tiles you need, and to do that, you have to calculate the area of the space you’ll be covering. Below is a list of materials, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll need to get the job done in a safe way and to a high standard: Check the new plaster is dry before you start, bearing in mind it can take at least two months to set properly, and use Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surfaces.Īs with all DIY jobs, proper preparation and your safety come first. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or cracks. If you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling then don’t be as we’ve created this handy guide that covers everything there is know about wall tiling! You can use the buttons below to skip to the bit you’re interested in or simply scroll to read the whole lot.īefore you start, make sure the surfaces you’ll be working on are clean, dry and flat. The thought of tiling your own walls may be daunting prospect, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you may think.
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